Pearl in an Ocean

Spice-laden vegetarian dishes are the specialty
at this tiny Sri Lankan dining room

by Christina Waters

Small and intimate, an attractive assortment of artwork adorning the coral-hued walls, Pearl’s little Sri Lankan dining room makes a special invitation to those who like vegetarian dining, with plenty of lamb and chicken on offer as well. Our meal began with Irene’s appetizer of chile chickpea ($6) and my entrée of Sri Lankan–style noodles, plus griddle-baked paan ($5), a huge flatbread much like pita, only softer. The accompanying garlic dip gave the bread some welcome oomph. Served in a white bowl, the chickpeas had been simmered in chile, coconut milk and mustard seeds, with added kick from plenty of garlic.

My Sri Lankan–style noodles ($18) arrived with a large plate of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and lettuce. The entrée was a vast plate of noodles tossed in coriander-and ginger-intensive spices and inflected with carrots and tomatoes. Chicken, $2 extra, arrived in a heavily spiced sauce. Our other entrée of lamb curry ($16.50) was joined by thinly chopped and braised kale, rice, and delicious chunks of lamb roasted in curry powder and almond sauce. Yellow lentil dhal and extremely sweet eggplant sauté joined the other veggies, and a thin, crisp papadam sat on top of the entrée, making a jaunty top note for the dish.

April 27, 2010

[Best] New Restaurant

by Josie Cowden

What used to be called Sri (short for Sri Lanka) on Water Street is now Pearl of the Ocean. Sri Lanka is said to be the “jewel” of the Indian Ocean — situated as it is like a gem off the south coast of India. Owner Ayoma Wilen has carried on the tradition of Sri by preparing mostly vegetarian/ vegan food — and some meat dishes as well. Actually, I love Indian and Sri Lankan food — and all the delicious spices that go along with it — and it makes a change from a pork chop and mashed potatoes. The prices are very reasonable, too. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Monday. Brain candy: There’s also a wonderful selection of teas, exotic drinks, and wine and beer.

November 18, 2009

A gem of a spot for organic Sri Lankan fare at

Pearl of the Ocean

by Ann Parker

When I had a yen for something with exotic seasonings and coconut milk last week, I headed for lunch at Pearl of the Ocean — located on Water Street, appropriately enough.

Local Sri Lankan food fans didn’t have to miss a day of their favorite curries when this site shifted, with no down time, from operating as Sri Restaurant to becoming Pearl of the Ocean in April.

The new owner has expanded Sri’s menu with her own recipes and is using almost entirely organic ingredients, including spices and vegetables she imports from her native Sri Lanka.

Seating about 36 people, the little restaurant is simple but charming, the white linens of its glass-topped tables complementing cinnamon-colored walls. The day I visited, autumnal mini-mums graced each table and white orchids and candles flanked a serene Buddha on a long horizontal altar.

I stood inside the door waiting for someone to greet me for several minutes before the owner, Ayoma Wilen, emerged from the kitchen with a warm welcome. Once seated, I waited a little too long to order; inconsistent service, shifting from attentive graciousness to non-attendance, continued throughout my meal.

I should mention that Wilen is also Pearl of the Ocean’s chef — and evidently she was the only server that day, a daunting challenge even mid-week in a tiny restaurant.

Ayoma’s lovely accent made all of the dishes sound even more appealing as she explained the menu. I started with Thai Iced Tea ($3) and Belli Juice ($3.50) — a drink she described as tasting like “papaya-orange-cantaloupe” — and an order of Paan ($4.75), griddle-baked bread.

Two-, three- or four-entree combinations were offered with brown or ginger rice, dahl, carrot salad and papadam. I chose the two-entree meal ($8.50), selecting Cauliflower Cashew Curry and Spicy Potatoes from ten dishes.

Drinks and paan arrived first; the thick aromatic bread overflowing its big basket. I tore a piece of hot, fresh bread and savored a heavenly bite with the buttery-tasting garlic dip. The drinks earned a mixed response: the barely-iced tea seemed oddly sour, but I enjoyed the refreshing, pleasantly exotic belli juice.

Wafting an intoxicating aroma, my colorful meal was crowned with paper-thin papadam flatbread and filled a large square white plate. The cauliflower and cashews were wonderful, cooked just to tenderness and steeped in a creamy, turmeric-hued coconut milk sauce that was subtle yet richly flavorful. Fragrant basmati rice, saffron-yellow and faintly gingery, occupied the center of the plate, its toasty flavor enhanced by a topping of piquant carrot-tendril salad flecked with hot pepper bits.

The spicy potato dish delivered heat and flavor in a one-two punch of cooked green chiles and fiercely warm spices that complemented and enhanced the firm, floury potatoes. I hate it when a menu says "spicy" but wimps out; this dish followed through with delicious, decided flair. Its heat was cooled by a dab of tangy tamarind chutney and somewhat bland dahl, which was distinguished by fresh tomato pieces.

Curious to taste other items, I ordered another two-entree meal ($10.50 with $2 extra for chicken) to take home and was impressed with both dishes. The full-flavored Curried Chicken featured a thigh and drumstick with meat practically melting off the bones; and my creamy Garbanzo Curry was filled with perfectly cooked chickpeas in a mild coconut milk sauce.

Pearl of the Ocean is a tiny treasure on the half shell, despite service inconsistencies. Using organic local produce, authentic recipes and personally imported ingredients, Ayoma Wilen is managing to create healthy food that tastes hedonistic. Talk about the best of both worlds.

All photos by Shmuel Thaler

More about Pearl of the Ocean

“Sri Lanka is a tiny island, like a pearl in the ocean,” says Ayoma Wilen, explaining her restaurant’s name. Formerly Ceylon, this island republic is famous for its teas and spices — including “the best cinnamon in the world,” notes Wilen, who imports a variety of spices, teas and produce from her homeland, and makes her own curry powder fresh each week.

“I’ve always had a passion for cooking, and cooking with nutrition and flavor,” Ayoma says.

Among the most popular dishes at Pearl of the Ocean, she says, is the Kandy Pollos Curry, a baby jackfruit dish named after her home city of Kandy. “People also go crazy for the lotus roots cooked with coconut milk and the spicy lamb curry.” Her own favorite: Pearl Special Asparagus Salad [see above] with roasted cumin seed.

In addition to creating a place for people to enjoy nutritious, flavorful food, says Ayoma, “I want my restaurant to be romantic, but also welcoming to families, so children can see how good vegetables can be.”

July 8, 2009

Spice Island Specialties

Pearl of the Ocean serves well-seasoned Sri Lankan cuisine

by Karen Petersen

Sri Lanka, the Resplendent Island, has been called “The Pearl of the Indian Ocean.” With miles of coastline, it is home to coconut palms, fruit trees, rice paddies, and true cinnamon. Using ingredients such as these, Pearl of the Ocean brings healthy Sri Lankan cuisine to Water Street.

This new restaurant moved into the space previously occupied by Sri. Glass-covered tablecloths bear colorful hand-appliquéd elephants, and green plants and cut flowers dot the room. Framed tourism posters hang from walls, including a photograph of Sigiriya, a monstrous magma rock jutting 600 feet above the lush plain, topped with remains of an ancient palace.

The midday menu, which quickly accommodates short lunch hours, features entrées with two, three or four items ($8.50, $10.50, and $12.50). All are vegan except for Chicken Curry (add $2).

I sipped a custard-colored Mango Lassi ($3.50), a slightly sweet blend of yogurt and mango pulp. Its soothing dairy base would tame the spicy meal that would follow.

Soon, the cumin-scented combination platter arrived. Mangos topped with sliced almonds were stewed in a sweet sauce with onions until soft like warm chutney. The spicy potatoes dotted with black mustard seeds were delightfully fiery, seasoned with chilies and spices. Tender, skinless curried chicken thigh was cooked with savory aromatics.

Liberal use of turmeric gave the spicy legume dhal and piquant long grains of tender ginger rice a bright buttercup yellow hue. The topping of salty shredded carrot salad bestowed its own snappy bite. I dipped the cumin-studded pappadam, which is like a tortilla, but made of lentil flour, paper-thin, and crisp, into the sweet and sour tamarind condiment.

The dinner menu is expansive. Seasonal fish is topped with coconut sauce, chicken is cooked with spiced cream in Chicken Tikka Masala, and lamb with roasted curry powder is bathed in an almond-based sauce. Noteworthy also, the giant jackfruit, indigenous to Sri Lanka, is simmered with spices, while attractively-shaped lotus root is cooked with coconut milk.

January 9, 2008

Winter Warming

Variety and zest make the food at Sri, in Santa Cruz, memorable

by Karen Petersen

In the dark depths of winter I’m warmed by the thought that it’s summer somewhere else. Sri Lanka for instance. Meaning resplendent land, it’s the dry season in this island nation at the eastern tip of India, and temperatures average 70 degrees. Situated along a key trade route, and boasting indigenous true cinnamon, centuries of traders and invaders have influenced its coconut-rich cuisine. Our own Sri Restaurant, located in an unassuming storefront where Water Street steepens, prepares a rich variety of equatorial curries and snacks.

On a recent visit, I crossed the front deck, where on a different day, two picnic tables will present an enchanting view of summer’s setting sun. Inside, and quickly seated at one of the batik-clothed tables, soft orchestral music drifted from the speaker by the heater that whirred above me.

Lunchtime appetizers here range from $3 to $5.25. The freshly-baked, flat and freckled paan bread, thicker and larger than a pita and slightly sweet, is accompanied by a timbale of melted garlic butter. Lunch entrees include a dhal (legume) curry with either brown or turmeric-colored ginger rice, and a choice of one to four curries ($6 to $8.50). Chicken is the only non-vegetarian offering. Darkly robed in a roasted curry powder–based sauce, it was fall-off-the-bone tender. In my second selection, soft chunks of sweet mango were flecked with hot red chili peppers.

The dinner menu, three times as deep as lunch, includes soups and salads, plus Indian and Northern Sri Lankan specialties. Also, a larger selection of meat curries often includes both lamb and shrimp. On Sundays, order dinner from the Set Menu, where for $10.50 to $13, you build your own meal from a variety of curry toppings, appetizers, and/or traditional beverages.

December 3, 2007

ania_o

Our favorite restaurant in Santa Cruz is Sri (at 736 Water Street, near downtown). As the name indicates, the cuisine is Sri Lankan, and if I might say so, it’s pretty darn delicious. We have eaten there on numerous occasions, and the food is always fresh. The dishes are very flavorful; my favorite is four-topping sampler. You get to choose from about nine different toppings and they are all pretty amazing. The prices are right, too; dinner for two with two beers, appetizer, two entrées and lassis will cost you about $35 (without tip or tax). The only drawback is the sparse décor, but the food is well worth the visit!

February 14, 2007

A Family Affair

Still no alcohol, but plenty of delectable sauces to choose from
on Sri’s expanded dinner menu

by Selene Latigo

It is astounding to think about the number of small family businesses throughout the world. I thoroughly bow down to those family units who year after year, generation after generation, dutifully work together to create a self-sustaining life for each other and some great food for the public. The ones that actually enjoy one another as well, finding a graceful work ethic within their family dynamic, are completely awe inspiring to me whenever I ponder taking on such a venture with my own relatives. When I walk into a business with obvious familial staffing and sense this positive network of a mutual livelihood, it makes me want to return. We are all lucky to have Sri nearby, where genuine care and respectful connection has turned a simple space into a well-deserved destination.

Every time I visit Sri it seems to be busier and busier. The single room dining area fills up quickly and for good reason. A range of healthful, interesting dishes, accessible prices and welcoming family-run service make Sri a good choice for any occasion. Though modest, the appealing magenta color scheme and scattered Sri Lankan décor fills the space tastefully, and the efficient service has always created a smooth, easeful experience.

Dave and I arrived at the perfect time Friday evening to nab the little back corner table. Our young server brought over water and a glowing candle for some ambience, and proceeded to provide knowledgeable explanations and recommendations about various items off the expanded dinner menu. While the lack of a liquor license means no alcohol, not even BYOB (we should have more of this convenient option like other cities), there are several beverages to choose from. I immediately selected the faluda ($3), a new item, our server informed us excitedly, made with kasa kasa seeds, milk and rose syrup. It was a blushing shade of pink, creamy and sweet, with the intoxicating floral flavor of rose. The little seeds, known for their cooling digestive properties, were subtle and floated on top with just a little pop and crunch from time to time. Dave ordered a cup of pure jasmine tea ($1.50), soothing and elemental in its warmth and fragrance.

We couldn’t decide on which appetizer to get, toying between familiar favorites like the warm paan and fresh salad rolls, or the more decadent fried specialties. Finally, we went with some coconut rotti ($3.50), two disks of slightly chewy, grilled crackerlike bread with bits of coconut and two dipping options: hot garlic ghee and a spicy green chile relish. We hungrily tore into one while it was still warm and saved the other, crisping as it cooled, to use as a scooping implement.

We also selected the purple and orange salad ($6.50) for some nourishing rawness after a week of hearty houseguest entertaining. It was a colorful heap of greens, grated carrot, beet, cabbage, onion and refreshing dill. However, the side of thick, bottled Italian dressing seemed contradictory to the optimal health of the unprocessed veggies.

Since I generally frequent Sri’s scaled-down lunch menu, I wanted to sample some less familiar entrées. The string hoppers ($10), located in the “Sri Specials” category, are basically homemade rice flour capellini, formed into flattened baskets and stacked. They were extremely effective in clinging onto the accompanying saucy yellow potato curry and the savory, light coconut sambol with bits of tomato and red onion. If it had been a Saturday or Sunday, I would have tried the unique weekend-only special jackfruit curry.

Dave ordered the fish platter ($13) with his choice of two toppings from the list of close to a dozen. The flaky chunks of albacore were covered in deep, multispiced gravy, sharing space with a huge central pile of ginger basmati rice. The cashew cauliflower featured the same delicate, coconut curry sauce as my tender potatoes, with a few cashews sprinkled over the ideally cooked cauliflower. Firm wedges of sweet yet spiced mango were covered in crunchy thin almond slices, a great textural addition. In addition to these chosen accompaniments, there was a small pool of simple, earthy dhal, a crisp, salty half-moon of papadam and a little dollop of tangy sweet tamarind chutney.

The primary use of coconut and roasted dry curry with no dairy made all of these balanced, complex dishes feel light, without the heavy, oily aftermath that some Indian restaurants can leave. I am consistently pleased with my food at Sri and will continue to cram into this ever more popular place, which is now open Mondays.

May 25, 2008

Well-executed hard-to-find Sri Lankan cuisine

rjhintz

Summary: authentic, hard-to-find Sri Lankan cuisine — not Indian/Pakistani — very friendly service — reasonable prices — free parking in adjoining lot. I go here for lunch whenever I’m in the area. I’ve been looking for Sri Lankan food since visiting there some time ago, and being really knocked out by the food. I got a cookbook and have been cooking Sri Lankan food pretty regularly, so I was very pleased to find this place. It certainly more than met my expectations. After I told the owner I was familiar with Sri Lankan cooking, he went out of his way to put together a multi-course lunch that was not dumbed down for American taste. It was great, and I’ll certainly return.

August 13, 2007

A very pleasant surprise!

lexi

I heard this place was small, service was pretty great, one hostess and server was able to handle us and all the people that were coming in. Décor was appealing for a nice small café-like restaurant. Spring rolls were the best I’ve ever had!!! And the curry was very tasty. Even the refills on the wonderful Sri hot tea!!! I loved it!! I would go again soon! Only thing that I could say was not great was the loud ring on the business phone.

December 15, 2004

’Tis the Sri-son

Latest Sri Lankan addition is a must for vegetarians
and a great spot to sample a range of flavor

by Steve Billings

I’ve been meaning to check out Sri for some time now, and I’m glad that I finally did. Originally I was perplexed at the arrival of another Sri Lankan restaurant due to the existence of Asian Rose and Malabar, both of whose offerings lean heavily on Southwest Asian and Sri Lankan stylings. But the restaurant, owned by Indika, a Sri Lankan native who moved to Santa Cruz nine years ago, appears to be doing just fine, and should be on my vegan/vegetarian list as a spot to try.

The joint is set beside Comicopolis on Water Street and occupies the space formerly held by Joe’s Pizza and Subs. It seems an unlikely spot for a restaurant, but the night I was in, the place was humming, full of conversation, life and good world beat music.

The room itself is simple, cafélike. There are warm, earthtoned walls, scenic shots of lush Sri Lankan landscapes, and a rectangular window to the kitchen, allowing a view of busy cooks.

Though Sri Lankan is certainly a land of curries and rice, your plate need not be if your hunger is for something else. The menu offers a wide selection of lighter fare that could be culled from the appetizer and salad selections and combined as a meal. There are fresh Salad Rolls ($5), stuffed with a mango chutney, and Sate Sticks ($6), skewerys of tofu, tempe and soy interspersed with seasonal veggies, basted with a tamarind sauce and grilled.

On a cold winter night you could satiate yourself on soup and salad Sri Lankan–style, savoring a bowl of creamy Sri Lankan Lentil Soup ($3) served with spinach and vegetables along with one of four substantial salads ($5.50–$6.50). Add to this an order of freshly baked Paan ($3), a grilled round flat bread served with ghee and garlic, and you’ve eaten for the night.

The salad I grazed upon featured carrots, green apples, and dried cranberries atop a bed of mixed greens ($6.50) The dressing, plied on the side, was a sweet apple and lemon mixture which, blended together with some of the pureed raw garlic and ginger, resulted in bright, pungent, racy flavors.

Entrée choices can be divided into two main groups; stir-frys and curries. All are served on spacious oval plates with choice of white or ginger rice, dal, papadum and chutney. Monoflavorists may opt to get only one preparation, while polyflavorists will gravitate toward the Sri Lankan Platter ($9.50-$10) that allows you to choose three or four different curries. For maidens of spice, this is a great way to sample a diverse range of flavors and textures.

This is what I did, and the three I ordered delivered. Eggplant and moju was smoky, spicy, underneath. Cashew and cauliflower was a study in melting richness and creeping coconut milk. Kale and coconut, shaved fine like grass clippings, lightened it all up, an homage to your inner bovine.

In addition to the diverse vegetarian (mostly vegan) offerings, Sri does prepare some substantial chicken dishes (curried, baked, and Sri Deviled Chicken).

Weekends also feature a few specials, including a fish curry, and a salmon fillet done with Sri Lankan spices and sauteed or steamed vegetables. Though I had no appetite for desert, there is vanilla or mango ice cream, carmel pudding, and a great selection of teas and coffee.

Most notable to me was the preparation of the vegetables in the various dishes. From what I tasted, nothing was overcooked, oversauced or out of balance. The veggies were lively, bright, still alive, and provided a great freshness against various sauce treatments.

Simply put, the food is good, the atmosphere comfortable, the service friendly. The only thing I would change in the whole place is the thick plastic covers over what are ostensibly attractive tablecloths. Easy to clean? Yes. Odd to dine on? Yeah. A small detail, I know, but that’s how I roll, and it’s not usually on plastic.

December 1, 2004

How Sri It Is

Where chutney is king

by Anne Parker

It was a Tuesday night and Sri restaurant was nearly full — not bad for a new restaurant whose driveway was partly obstructed by a construction project.

My friends Tom and Nancy, who had eaten at Sri several times, invited me and my buddy Michael to join them there for dinner. The decor is simple but warm, with a Buddha statue and images of the co-chef/owner’s native Sri Lanka on the earth-tone walls. Indika Mudannayake opened the restaurant six months ago with his sister Anjala and her husband, Indika Dodanwala, the lead cook.

“Sri Lanka is an island off the southeast coast of India — it used to be called Ceylon,” explained Tom, adding that the country is famous for fine tea. “And sapphires,” volunteered Nancy. Michael and I were impressed: dinner and a history lesson.

Our lovely server Aviana was born in Malaysia of Sri Lankan parents and then raised in Santa Cruz. She graciously answered our many questions about the food, including explaining that their traditional chai is served without milk or sugar. We ordered both chai ($2.50) and mango lassi ($2.50), a creamy yogurt-and-mango drink. I decided to sweeten up the spicy chai a bit but the tart-sweet lassi, with its refreshing fruit flavor, was delightful.

We chose three appetizers to begin. The Sate Sticks ($6) arrived first, four long wooden skewers loaded with marinated tofu, tempeh and nearly every type of vegetable fit to grill. (Almost all of Sri’s dishes are vegan, with a surprising range of offerings.)

Next came our Salad Rolls ($5), similar to Thai or Vietnamese fresh spring rolls except for their large size. These generous thin-skinned rolls were crammed with crisp greens, carrots and rice noodles, with a tangy mango chutney — the first of several outstanding relishes accompanying our dishes.

My favorite appetizer was the traditional Sri Lankan Coconut Rotti ($3), a crispy griddle-baked bread served with garlic-laced ghee (clarified butter) as well as a snappy chutney made with coconut and jalapeño pepper. The order included two large flat breads, one aromatic with coconut and the other containing whole curry leaves.

Our appetites were now thoroughly whetted for our three entrées. These dishes all came with Basmati rice (plain or ginger), dhal, chutney and flash-fried rice papadams in the shape of stars. Tom’s choice, Bok Choy Tofu ($9), featured cubes of tofu in a caramelized onion sauce, topped with crunchy fresh bok choy.

I was most the pleased with our Sri Lankan Platter ($9.50), which offered a choice of three curries out of eight. We chose coconut leek sambol, cashews with cauliflower, and mixed vegetable curry. All three curries were delicious — from the nutty sambol, orange with turmeric, to the sweet cooked cashews and the vegetables with tempeh. All entrées combined well and were complemented beautifully with the fresh ginger rice and hearty yellow dhal.

Nancy remarked on the colorful cuisine. I particularly enjoyed a bright green paste made with mint and hot peppers (the mango lassi was a perfect antidote to the heat of this accompaniment; Michael drained his with a flourish). Noticing my weakness for this chutney, Aviana included an extra dollop in my to-go container.

One more Sri Lankan treat beckoned. We split a Caramel Pudding ($3.50), determined to sample this unusual sweet. A cross between soft egg custard and flan, this tenderly subtle dessert contains whole baked cashews and the flavors of cardamom, cinnamon and vanilla. We cleaned the dish, vying for the last sweet scrapes.

Sri is a small restaurant, and modest in some ways, but it offers a number of niceties, including burgundy-colored cloth napkins and traditional music.

When asked the difference between Indian and Sri Lankan food, owner Indika noted that his native cuisine uses more coconut milk and that the ratio of spices is also different.

After coming to the US nine years ago to study as a flight instructor, Indika worked in several restaurants before opening Sri. “Our business is small, but we try to serve quality food,” he said, also noting that the restaurant offers specialties Friday through Sunday, including fish and traditional Sri Lankan foods wrapped in banana leaves.

“I like meeting people, making them happy and maybe serving them a new kind of meal,” he said. “When customers are happy, we’re happy too.”

Indika said that return visitors (like Tom and Nancy) make up 75–80% of his clientele. Those numbers explain the busy Tuesday night and the willingness of Sri fans to brave construction obstacles. I’m going back for that green chutney alone.

October 14, 2004

A Word About Sri

by Josie Cowden

I decided the only way to do justice to the six appetizers offered by Sri, the new Sri Lankan restaurant on Water Street, was to order every single one. All of them are vegetarian, as are the majority of the menu items. But if it’s flavor you’re after, then this is the place. Sri offers bare-bones good food at prices that won’t break the bank.

Four amazingly good salad rolls arrived first. Tempe, avocado, carrot, salad greens and rice noodles are held together in a delicate wafer-thin wrap. This is a mini-meal in itself. Nutty flavors exude from the tempe, and the flour wrap has a great springy chewiness. Dip these little wonders in mango chutney and you get a tantalizing mix of savory and sweet.

Hot from the pan came two vegetable rolls breaded and fried Sri Lankan–style. Crispy fried on the outside, the crust and filling is simply delicious. A mildly picante chile concoction is served as a dipping sauce, but if you want to be hotter under your collar, all you have to do is ask for spicier food.

Pakoras are a bit like Japanese tempura. They’re veggies deep-fried in batter, in this case chickpea batter. Nothing’s overcooked, so the vegetables retain their crunchiness. Stick these wonderful things in mango chutney and sambol (a green chile sauce with coconut and mint), and you can’t go wrong.

Freshly baked paan (griddle bread) served with warm ghee and garlic is completely nourishing and, in its simplicity, one of my favorite breads. Ghee (a form of clarified butter which originated in India) is perfect for dipping your paan. I could live on this stuff.

Sri Lankan coconut rotti is unleavened griddle-baked bread. It’s denser than paan and has a lovely doughy texture. Some finely chopped red onion seared into the underside added a zap more flavor.

Take tofu, tempe and soy with five skewered vegetables and, voila! — you have sate sticks. They’re grilled kebob-style and served with a home-made tamarind sauce. The tart and zingy flavors of the tamarinds spices up the mild flavors of the tofu and veggies. All the sauces served are really good and greatly enhance the food.

Owner Indiaka Mudannayake hails from the beautiful city of Kandy in the hill country of Sri Lanka. He brought in his sister Angela to help him when he opened the restaurant, and she does most of the cooking. Indika is a trained pilot and flight instructor and flew in the Sri Lankan Air Force. After coming to this country, he started working in the restaurant business and realized that he liked it. Opening a business is a dream come true. He is Buddhist and lives by that philosophy. “I’m trying to serve good food to people and make everybody happy,” he says.

Sri, 736 Water Street, Santa Cruz, 457-2350. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Monday.

July 14, 2004

Currying Favor

At the new Sri, Santa Cruz can share the Sri Lankan curry obsession

by Jessica Neuman Beck

In Sri Lanka, curries are a way of life. You name it, they can curry it — heck, even if you can’t name it.

Case in point: at the newly opened Sri restaurant in Santa Cruz, owner Indika makes a fantastic triple mushroom curry with grilled portobello, button and oyster mushrooms, using a recipe recalled from his youth. The difference is that back then no one was really sure what mushroom they were using.

“We use a mushroom that we find around our neighborhood,” he laughs. “They don’t have really names, but they are palatable.”

Indika knows a thing or two about names, though, since he has several himself. “Actually, I’ve got four names,” he says. Though he goes by the single appellation now, his full name is Anura Bandara Indika Mudannayake. He moved to Santa Cruz nine years ago, and found himself wanting to bring the flavor of his home country to the people of Santa Cruz.

“I was working here part time in a restaurant, and I'm thankful to them for giving me the idea of opening a restaurant,” he says. “I wanted to do something that would represent my country and give the people that live over here a different taste of Sri Lankan food.”

Sri Lankan cuisine is flavored by a multitude of influences. Colonized by the Portuguese in 1517, the Dutch in 1658 and the British in 1796, Sri Lanka, then called Ceylon (a name you might recognize from that gourmet tea in your cupboard), gained independence in 1948 and now maintains an uneasy peace between its Tamil and Singhali factions. Their food, however, remains heavily Indian-influenced.

“The difference between the Indian and the Sri Lankan way of cooking is that the Indians cook with raw curry powder and we cook with roast curry powder,” says Indika. “Another thing is Indians use a lot of ghee and garlic and butter for cooking, and yogurt, and we use coconut milk instead.”

Sri’s menu features appetizers like salad rolls, satay sticks and freshly baked paan, as well as a traditional Sri Lankan coconut rotti. Several types of curry are available, as well as bok choy tofu and vegetable stir-fry with tempe, and four different salads.

“In our country we have a lot of access to vegetables, so we eat a lot of salads,” Indika says. Desserts include mango ice cream and caramel pudding.

And, of course, there is the tea. It is in this department in particular that Sri Lanka's British influence can be felt — as far as countries obsessed with tea go, they're about on a par. Sri Lanka, however, has the advantage of actually growing the tea it drinks.

“It’s the finest tea you can find,” Indika says with pride. Sri features a fine variety of black and herbal teas, all exported directly from Indika’s home country. But don’t come in expecting a nice, mild cup of tea — as the leading tea exporter in the world, they mean business.

“We make it a different way,” Indika tells us. “The concentration is different from the other teas around here.”

Sri has done its best to create a Sri Lankan escape for its customers. Decorated in oranges and greens, the atmosphere is comfortable and relaxing. “The colors that you find in here are the colors that you find in Sri Lanka,” says Indika, whose sisters supervised the decoration. “I just want to make people feel like they are in a different place and forget all the day-to-day life.”

Although Sri opened only two months ago, business has been steady. “Things have been moving in a positive way,” Indika tells us. “People are coming back.” Lured in by the promise of something a little bit different, customers are finding that Sri Lankan cuisine is something to savor. “They have a cup of Sri Lankan tea,” Indika says, “and they stay until we close.”

Sri is located at 736 Water Street in Santa Cruz, and open for lunch and dinner. Contact them at 831 457-2350.